Crochet Conversions: Patterns for the Minority

Knitty Sleep Sack - Size Extra Small

2007-07-17T19:38:47Z

Chest: 15", Total Length: 16", Circumference at Bottom Edge: 20", Approx. Preemie Size

Gauge: 15 hdc & 12 r/4"
Size H hook, or size needed for gauge
Worsted Weight yarn
2 Buttons
10" Zipper (optional)

Visit Jacque, who wrote the original knit Zodiac Baby Sack pattern, at www.thiskittenknits.com

Read Bottom Closure section before starting.

Note: Ch. 2 counts as 1st stitch unless stated otherwise.

Lower Body
Rnd 1: Ch. 76, join w/ sl to 1st ch, being careful not to twist work, ch. 1, hdc in joining and in each ch around, join. (76 sts)
Rnd 2-6: Ch. 2, turn, hdc around, join. (76 sts)
Rnd: 7: Ch. 2, turn, 15 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 32 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 16 hdc, join. (72 sts)
Rnd 8-13: Rep Rnd 2. (72 sts)
Rnd 14: Ch. 2, turn, 14 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 30 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 15 hdc, join. (68 sts)
Rnd 15-20: Rep Rnd 2. (68 sts)
Rnd 21: Ch. 2, turn, 13 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 28 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 14 hdc, join. (64 sts)
Rnd 22-27: Rep Rnd 2. (64 sts)
Rnd 28: Ch. 2, turn, 12 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 26 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 13 hdc, join. (60 sts)
Rnd 29-34: Rep Rnd 2: (60 sts)
Rnd 35: Ch. 2, turn, 11 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 24 hdc, dec, 2 hdc, dec, 12 hdc, join. (56 sts)
Rnd 36-42: Rep Rnd 2. Fasten off. (56 sts)

This section should measure about 14" in length.

Divide for Armhole
R 43: Skip 17 sts, join w/ sl in next st, ch. 1, hdc in joining & next 21 sts, leaving rem sts unworked. (22 sts)

Upper Back
R 44: Ch. 1, turn, hdc, dec, 16 hdc, dec, hdc. (20 sts)

Shape Neckline
R 45: Ch. 1, turn, 3 hdc, dec, hdc, leaving rem sts unworked. (5 sts)

Right Back Shoulder
R 46-48: Ch. 1, turn, hdc across. Fasten off after R 48. (5 sts)

Left Back Shoulder
R 45: Using unworked sts of R 45, skip 8 sts, join w/ sl in next st, ch. 1, hdc in joining, dec, hdc to end. (5 sts)
R 46-48: Rep as for Right Back Shoulder. (5 sts)

Upper Left Front
R 43: Using unworked sts of R 43, skip 6 sts, join w/ sl in next st, ch. 1, hdc in joining & next 10 sts, leaving rem sts unworked. (11 sts)
R 44: Ch. 1, turn, 8 hdc, dec, hdc. (10 sts)
R 45: Ch. 1, turn, hdc across. (10 sts)
R 46: Ch. 1, turn, sl 5 sts, ch. 1, hdc in same st as last sl, dec, hdc to end. (5 sts)
R 47-48: Rep R 45. (5 sts)

Use whatever method you prefer to join front and back shoulders. I like to use a (ch, sl) across. If you use this method, fasten off after joining. If you'd rather sew them together, fasten off at the end of R 48, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Upper Right Front
Rep as for Left Front, rev shaping.

This section should measure about 2" from armhole to shoulder joining.

Button Loop Band
Join to edge of Left Front; working in ends of rows, (sc, ch. 1-3, sc) in 1st row, sc in 2nd r, (sc, ch. 1-3, sc) in 3rd row, fasten off.

Use the number of chains needed to fit your buttons. Ch. 2 usually works well for medium size buttons.

Sew 2 buttons on Right Front to match Button Loops.

Optional Edging
Work 1 Rnd of crab st (rev sc) around neck and armholes.

Bottom Closure
If using a zipper, pin and sew to bottom edge. Fabric should be close to the zipper teeth without getting caught. I prefer a casing and drawstring. For the drawstring, ch. 114-152, depending on how long you like your drawstring to be. Typical drawstrings are 1 ½ times the length of the starting chain. I like long ones, so I usually double it. For the casing, simple turn up the 1st two rounds of the lower body and sew around. You can turn it to the inside or the outside, whichever you prefer. Either sew over the drawstring or thread it through afterwards. If you decide to use a casing, you will lose about 2/3 of an inch from the total length. You may want to work 2 extra rounds in the lower body if you need the full 14" below the armholes.

Punk Knitters Crochet Conversion - Size Toddler

2007-05-31T14:13:12Z

Hips: approx. 20" over diaper
Pictures and more measurements coming soon.

Gauge: 7 sts and 6 r per 2 in.
Size H hook, or size needed for gauge.
Worsted weight yarn.
See the general info post for additional information.

Rnd 1: Ch 68, join w/ sl to 1st ch, ch 1 (counts as 1st hdc now and throughout this section), turn, hdc in next ch and each ch around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (68 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next st and in each st around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (68 sts)
Rnd 3-22: Rpt rnd 2. Tie off after rnd 22. (68 sts)

Next section worked in rows. Ch 1 no longer counts as 1st hdc.

R 1: Skip 8 sts, join in the next st, hdc in joining and in the next 52 sts. (53 sts, 15 sts unworked.)
R 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (53 sts)
R 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, dec over next 2 sts, hdc across to w/i 3 sts of end, dec over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. (51 sts)
R 4-7: Rpt r 3. (43 sts)
R 8: Rpt r 2. (43 sts)
R 9-13: Rpt r 3. (33 sts)
R 14: Rpt r 2. (33 sts)
R 15-19: Rpt r 3. (23 sts)
R 20: Rpt r 2. (23 sts)
R 21-24: Rpt r 3. (15 sts)
R 25: Rpt r 2. (15 sts)

Join sts of r 25 to unworked sts of r 1, using whatever method you prefer. I like to hold the work w/ right sides facing and (sl, ch 1) in each st across, omitting last ch to tie off. If working leg cuffs, you can continue on to the 1st cuff, instead of tying off.

For the drawstring, ch 136 (more or less, depending on your preference), tie off, trim ends to match. I like a long tie because I like to tie it in a double bow. If you want a more substantial tie, sl back across each ch before tying off.

For the casing, turn down the first 2 rnds of the 1st section and sew around. You can either work over the drawstring or thread it through after you sew the casing. Hdc provides enough space in between sts w/o working lace holes. Find the center 2 sts, and pull the drawstring through, one end on either side of these 2 sts.

If desired, work leg cuffs in the same manner as the 1st section of the soaker body, working the first rnd through the ends of the rows along the leg opening. If you want a smaller leg opening, work 1 st per row. I prefer to work 3 sts for every 2 r. 8 rnds gives a nice, short leg w/ 3 rnds turned up for a cuff.

Weave in any ends.

To customize the fit:

Add or subtract rows in the 1st section to increase or decrease the rise in general.
Add or subtract rows in the 2nd section to increase or decrease the leg openings.

Punk Knitters Crochet Conversion - Size Large

2007-05-31T14:07:32Z

Hips: approx. 18" over diaper
Pictures and more measurements coming soon.

Gauge: 7 sts and 6 r per 2 in.
Size H hook, or size needed for gauge.
Worsted weight yarn.
See the general info post for additional information.

Rnd 1: Ch 62, join w/ sl to 1st ch, ch 1 (counts as 1st hdc now and throughout this section), turn, hdc in next ch and each ch around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (62 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next st and in each st around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (62 sts)
Rnd 3-22: Rpt rnd 2. Tie off after rnd 22. (62 sts)

Next section worked in rows. Ch 1 no longer counts as 1st hdc.

R 1: Skip 7 sts, join in the next st, hdc in joining and in the next 48 sts. (49 sts, 13 sts unworked.)
R 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (49 sts)
R 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, dec over next 2 sts, hdc across to w/i 3 sts of end, dec over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. (47 sts)
R 4-8: Rpt r 3. (37 sts)
R 9: Rpt r 2. (37 sts)
R 10-15: Rpt r 3. (25 sts)
R 16: Rpt r 2. (25 sts)
R 17-22: Rpt r 3. (13 sts)
R 23: Rpt r 2. (13 sts)

Join sts of r 23 to unworked sts of r 1, using whatever method you prefer. I like to hold the work w/ right sides facing and (sl, ch 1) in each st across, omitting last ch to tie off. If working leg cuffs, you can continue on to the 1st cuff, instead of tying off.

For the drawstring, ch 124 (more or less, depending on your preference), tie off, trim ends to match. I like a long tie because I like to tie it in a double bow. If you want a more substantial tie, sl back across each ch before tying off.

For the casing, turn down the first 2 rnds of the 1st section and sew around. You can either work over the drawstring or thread it through after you sew the casing. Hdc provides enough space in between sts w/o working lace holes. Find the center 2 sts, and pull the drawstring through, one end on either side of these 2 sts.

If desired, work leg cuffs in the same manner as the 1st section of the soaker body, working the first rnd through the ends of the rows along the leg opening. If you want a smaller leg opening, work 1 st per row. I prefer to work 3 sts for every 2 r. 8 rnds gives a nice, short leg w/ 3 rnds turned up for a cuff.

Weave in any ends.

To customize the fit:

Add or subtract rows in the 1st section to increase or decrease the rise in general.
Add or subtract rows in the 2nd section to increase or decrease the leg openings.

Until I get some samples made, here are a few pics of the test.


made with Simply Soft 100%             Noah, cruising in his cool          and taking a rest
acrylic from the scrap bag                  new cover (with adjusted rise)

Punk Knitters Crochet Conversion - Size Medium

2007-05-31T14:05:21Z

Hips: approx. 16" over diaper
Pictures and more measurements coming soon.

Gauge: 7 sts and 6 r per 2 in.
Size H hook, or size needed for gauge.
Worsted weight yarn.
See the general info post for additional information.

Rnd 1: Ch 56, join w/ sl to 1st ch, ch 1 (counts as 1st hdc now and throughout this section), turn, hdc in next ch and each ch around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (56 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next st and in each st around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (56 sts)
Rnd 3-21: Rpt rnd 2. Tie off after rnd 21. (56 sts)

Next section worked in rows. Ch 1 no longer counts as 1st hdc.

R 1: Skip 6 sts, join in the next st, hdc in joining and in the next 43 sts. (44 sts, 12 sts unworked.)
R 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (44 sts)
R 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, dec over next 2 sts, hdc across to w/i 3 sts of end, dec over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. (42 sts)
R 4-7: Rpt r 3. (34 sts)
R 8: Rpt r 2. (34 sts)
R 9-14: Rpt r 3. (22 sts)
R 15: Rpt r 2. (22 sts)
R 16-20: Rpt r 3. (12 sts)
R 21: Rpt r 2. (12 sts)

Join sts of r 21 to unworked sts of r 1, using whatever method you prefer. I like to hold the work w/ right sides facing and (sl, ch 1) in each st across, omitting last ch to tie off. If working leg cuffs, you can continue on to the 1st cuff, instead of tying off.

For the drawstring, ch 112 (more or less, depending on your preference), tie off, trim ends to match. I like a long tie because I like to tie it in a double bow. If you want a more substantial tie, sl back across each ch before tying off.

For the casing, turn down the first 2 rnds of the 1st section and sew around. You can either work over the drawstring or thread it through after you sew the casing. Hdc provides enough space in between sts w/o working lace holes. Find the center 2 sts, and pull the drawstring through, one end on either side of these 2 sts.

If desired, work leg cuffs in the same manner as the 1st section of the soaker body, working the first rnd through the ends of the rows along the leg opening. If you want a smaller leg opening, work 1 st per row. I prefer to work 3 sts for every 2 r. 8 rnds gives a nice, short leg w/ 3 rnds turned up for a cuff.

Weave in any ends.

To customize the fit:

Add or subtract rows in the 1st section to increase or decrease the rise in general.
Add or subtract rows in the 2nd section to increase or decrease the leg openings.

Punk Knitters Crochet Conversion - Size Small

2007-05-31T14:00:33Z

Hips: approx. 14" over diaper
Pictures and more measurements coming soon.

Gauge: 7 sts and 6 r per 2 in.
Size H hook, or size needed for gauge.
Worsted weight yarn.
See the general info post for additional information.

Rnd 1: Ch 50, join w/ sl to 1st ch, ch 1 (counts as 1st hdc now and throughout this section), turn, hdc in next ch and each ch around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (50 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next st and in each st around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (50 sts)
Rnd 3-21: Rpt rnd 2. Tie off after rnd 21. (50 sts)

Next section worked in rows. Ch 1 no longer counts as 1st hdc.

R 1: Skip 6 sts, join in the next st, hdc in joining and in the next 38 sts. (39 sts, 11 sts unworked.)
R 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (39 sts)
R 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, dec over next 2 sts, hdc across to w/i 3 sts of end, dec over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. (37 sts)
R 4-9: Rpt r 3. (25 sts)
R 10: Rpt r 2. (25 sts)
R 11-17: Rpt r 3. 11 sts)
R 18: Rpt r 2. (11 sts)

Join sts of r 18 to unworked sts of r 1, using whatever method you prefer. I like to hold the work w/ right sides facing and (sl, ch 1) in each st across, omitting last ch to tie off. If working leg cuffs, you can continue on to the 1st cuff, instead of tying off.

For the drawstring, ch 100 (more or less, depending on your preference), tie off, trim ends to match. I like a long tie because I like to tie it in a double bow. If you want a more substantial tie, sl back across each ch before tying off.

For the casing, turn down the first 2 rnds of the 1st section and sew around. You can either work over the drawstring or thread it through after you sew the casing. Hdc provides enough space in between sts w/o working lace holes. Find the center 2 sts, and pull the drawstring through, one end on either side of these 2 sts.

If desired, work leg cuffs in the same manner as the 1st section of the soaker body, working the first rnd through the ends of the rows along the leg opening. If you want a smaller leg opening, work 1 st per row. I prefer to work 3 sts for every 2 r. 8 rnds gives a nice, short leg w/ 3 rnds turned up for a cuff.

Weave in any ends.

To customize the fit:

Add or subtract rows in the 1st section to increase or decrease the rise in general.
Add or subtract rows in the 2nd section to increase or decrease the leg openings.

General Info about the Punk Knitters Crochet Conversions

2007-05-31T00:10:54Z

Comments, observations, explanations, and other technical,
boring stuff that just serves to affirm what a geek I am.

The crochet conversions of the Punk Knitters pattern are based on the original knitting gauge of 5 st and 6.5 r per 1 in.

I assumed familiarity with basic crochet technique and common abbreviations when I wrote out the instructions, but please feel free to ask if you don't understand something. There's nothing I hate more than not understanding a pattern and having no one to explain it.

I don't care for crochet ribbing, so this conversion uses a casing and drawstring. If you prefer ribbing, either crochet or knit, just ask, and I can post instructions.

I've included some of this information with each individual pattern, but I'll include it here also. My gauge is 7 sts and 6 r per 2 in, using a size H or I hook, depending on the specific yarn, and a worsted weight yarn. I used a looser gauge for a couple of reasons. Crochet fabric is thicker and more dense than knit fabric of comparable gauge, so using a looser gauge will keep you from gnarling your fingers forming super tight stitches. Also, crochet fabric isn't as stretchy as knit, because of the nature of the stitches, so looser stitches allow for more stretch. Plus, if you're like me, a looser gauge will keep you from giving up due to lack of perceived progress, which is why I don't knit by hand. As for yarn, I prefer to use 100% wool for my soakers (Punk Knitters suggests at least 75% wool), but I've also had success with acrylic, although I find that, if it gets really wet, it needs washing rather than just airing out, or it gets stinky very quickly.

If you have trouble matching the gauge, want to use a substantially different yarn, or have problems getting a good fit, I'd be happy to help you convert the pattern to your particulars. I can't make any guarantees, but I'll do my best.

Punk Knitters Crochet Conversion - Size Newborn

2007-05-29T17:41:39Z

Finished measurements, working pattern as written -
Hips: ~12" Rise: ~16" Leg: w/o cuff - ~5" w/ cuff - ~6"

Gauge: 7 sts and 6 r per 2 in.
Size I hook, or size needed for gauge.
Worsted weight yarn.
See the general info post for additional information.

Rnd 1: Ch 40, join w/ sl to 1st ch, ch 1 (counts as 1st hdc now and throughout this section), turn, hdc in next ch and each ch around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (40 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in next st and in each st around, join rnd w/ sl to 1st st. (40 sts)
Rnd 3-19: Rpt rnd 2. Tie off after rnd 19. (40 sts)

Next section worked in rows. Ch 1 no longer counts as 1st hdc.

R 1: Skip 5 sts, join in the next st, hdc in joining and in the next 30 sts. (31 sts, 9 sts unworked.)
R 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (31 sts)
R 3: Ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st st, dec over next 2 sts, hdc across to w/i 3 sts of end, dec over next 2 sts, hdc in last st. (29 sts)
R 4-7: Rpt r 3. (21 sts)
R 8: Rpt r 2. (21 sts)
R 9-14: Rpt r 3. (9 sts)
R 15: Rpt r 2. (9 sts)

Join sts of r 15 to unworked sts of r 1, using whatever method you prefer. I like to hold the work w/ right sides facing and (sl, ch 1) in each st across, omitting last ch to tie off. If working leg cuffs, you can continue on to the 1st cuff, instead of tying off.

For the drawstring, ch 80 (more or less, depending on your preference), tie off, trim ends to match. I like a long tie because I like to tie it in a double bow. If you want a more substantial tie, sl back across each ch before tying off.

For the casing, turn down the first 2 rnds of the 1st section and sew around. You can either work over the drawstring or thread it through after you sew the casing. Hdc provides enough space in between sts w/o working lace holes. Find the center 2 sts, and pull the drawstring through, one end on either side of these 2 sts.

If desired, work leg cuffs in the same manner as the 1st section of the soaker body, working the first rnd through the ends of the rows along the leg opening. If you want a smaller leg opening, work 1 st per row. I prefer to work 3 sts for every 2 r. 8 rnds gives a nice, short leg w/ 3 rnds turned up for a cuff.

Weave in any ends.

To customize the fit:

Add or subtract rows in the 1st section to increase or decrease the rise in general.
Add or subtract rows in the 2nd section to increase or decrease the leg openings.
Leg openings may also be adjusted when working the cuff. (See note above.)

Sample made with Simply Soft and a size I hook.